Author Topic: Jock's fleet  (Read 42060 times)

Offline Turbosuzi

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« Reply #30 on: January 26, 2005, 07:27:11 PM »
Hey Jock, with all this money your spending I'm beginning to think that your never gonna buy a house. You'll have the coolest suzuki's around but. :roll:
988 Sierra Ute
EA Throttle Body Injection
Microtech D4-s
T25 Garrett
Bleed Valve to 8psi
2.5" Dump, Straight Thru Muffler
1.5" Lift, With 235/75 All Terrains

http://www.customoffroad.com.au/about.asp

Offline Jock

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« Reply #31 on: January 26, 2005, 09:00:35 PM »
Only just had the 2H rebuilt 50000 kms ago.  $7000 two years ago.

I know the 12h-t is better for the turbo.  They also have oil sprayed directly onto the base of the pistons to help keep them cool.  Little jets out of the main oil gallery. But I have a really good motor.  I think they want around $6000-$9000 for a good one.

1-hz had direct injection.

Turbo kit is only $3050 wil pay for itself within two years by the amount of fuel it will save.

kit will give me 350nm of torque at 2000 rpm instead of 235nm, and 155hp at 3500 rpm instead of 108hp :D
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y0di

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« Reply #32 on: January 27, 2005, 06:17:34 PM »
okay, i muffed the 12HD, it is a 12HT with indirect injection.

this one i'm sure of, the 1HZ is indirect injection too, all of them.

the 1HD-T was direct injection turbo

the 1HD-FT was as above but twin cam

the 1HD-FTE as above but electronic injection pump.

can't pull the wool over your eyes jock. you've done your homework with the turbo kit then, goodluck, hope it all goes well for you.

Offline Jock

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« Reply #33 on: January 27, 2005, 08:03:26 PM »
Quote from: "Yodi"
this one i'm sure of, the 1HZ is indirect injection too, all of them.



I wasn't sure on this. :oops:

Some one did tell me that 1-hz was not as good as 2h.  Said they had cam/head problems?

Was offered one for $1500 but i had to put my engine number on it and destroy my old block.  Stayed away from that one.  May have been a little warm I think.

At least we have some one to answer our toyota questions without having to go to outer limits. :arrow:

Here is another question for you.  Did you ever work on many 75 series that had problems with gauges suddenly going to the top for a couple of minutes then returning to normal?  Fuel and temp at the same time and volt gauges that don't rise?
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y0di

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« Reply #34 on: January 27, 2005, 08:19:06 PM »
me thinks you're the only one wanting tojo answers, everyone else is pootrol crazy.

as for qu. nope, no experience with that one. :oops:

landcruisers are my speciality though. i used to be called the landcruiser king at townsville toyota.

used to be ( i'm a has been ) the quickest at everything on L/C's except engine rebuilds.

could have the g'box and t'fer out, clutch off and flywheel off in 25 min, not much longer to get it all back together. so around an hour for clutch change. :D

funnily, not long after i started at toyota, i scared the foreman on a testdrive ( i was driving ) since then he only gave me L/C's as he thought they were too slow for me to ever scare him again.

( was in a celica when he yelled at me to slow down )

y0di

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« Reply #35 on: January 27, 2005, 08:24:27 PM »
thought about it some more, sounds like an earth problem, poss the insulation is chaffed and is earthing out somewhere.

same thing will happen if you take the wire off the sender ( either temp, or fuel ) and earth it. gauges will go straight to full.

still though i have never encountered this anyway.

Offline Royce

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« Reply #36 on: January 28, 2005, 06:45:56 AM »
If a toyota loses it's earth to the head the gauges will go straight up

Or poss the voltage reg in the speedo is faulty

Don't really know but just shooting general ideas :wink:

I could of said something like, it;s a broken Toyota, that means you have to throw it away :P

y0di

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« Reply #37 on: January 28, 2005, 02:24:20 PM »
but you didn't say that did you......

re 1HZ probs, that's a new one on me, never had any probs with the 1HZ motor. only thing ever that needed doing other than oil and filters, was valve clearances. they tighten up and need new shims which are thinner, to achieve the required gap again. otherwise the valves ride on the cam and eventually burn the valves.

honestly, in 12 years, i've seen one overheated 1HZ and only one with burnt valves. of course there's alot of driver inflicted problems i've seen. ie. water entry in intake, popped pistons, bent con-rods, glugged up etc...

they are a quality product. i really like the 1 HDT. not so fussed with the 1 HDFT or the 1 HDFTE. nothing wrong with them, just don't like ( personally ) the multiple valve set up on them.

royce is correct with the engine earth suggestion. ( he's a knowlegable guy, isn't he )have been told by an auto electrician, that the standard toyota engine earths are only just acceptable when new. give them some age and they fall below acceptable. could be an idea to put another one or two earth straps on in strategic positions, between motor and body, or motor and chassis.

Offline Jock

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« Reply #38 on: April 23, 2005, 11:14:33 AM »
Some updated shots of the red one.

Motor is in, so are the diff locks and LJ80 diffs still playing with suspension at the moment.  Now can start the bar work and wiring up the motor.






WHOOPS this is on 29 inch tyres too. ( top of windscreen frame)
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Offline Royce

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« Reply #39 on: April 23, 2005, 04:07:24 PM »
Lookin good Jock

Is that one in the background of the second pic yours as well :P

Got any more pics of the shackle reversal? how high off the ground is the bottom of the shackle compared to the spring hanger on the front?

And what tires are they? what size?

 :wink:  :wink:  :wink:  8)  8)  8)  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :twisted:

y0di

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« Reply #40 on: April 23, 2005, 04:32:40 PM »
it's HUGE :D

Offline Sam

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« Reply #41 on: April 23, 2005, 04:52:21 PM »
those wheels look fantastic, are they the ones you got cut and flipped?
img]http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a27/spamwell/sig2.jpg[/img]

Offline Jock

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« Reply #42 on: April 23, 2005, 04:55:07 PM »
Quote from: "Royce"
Lookin good Jock

Is that one in the background of the second pic yours as well :P

Got any more pics of the shackle reversal? how high off the ground is the bottom of the shackle compared to the spring hanger on the front?

And what tires are they? what size?

 :wink:  :wink:  :wink:  8)  8)  8)  :lol:  :lol:  :lol:  :twisted:


29x7.5- 15 Simex extreme trekkers

Shackle reversal was done so I didn't have those big shackles smacking into everything again.  Having some Castor issues at the moment and tailshaft/pinion issues too.  Will post some pics when I get it right.

The one in the background is the old rusted out chassis.  Rear spring mounts had rusted right through on both sides.  Easier to get another chassis and swap it over.
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Offline Jock

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« Reply #43 on: April 23, 2005, 05:28:28 PM »
Quote from: "Sam"
those wheels look fantastic, are they the ones you got cut and flipped?


They are the 15 x 5.5 I had the centres removed and refitted with max offset.  The bolt up face lines up with the rear of the wheel.  Will be making some 15 x 7 soon with same sort of mega offset.
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y0di

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« Reply #44 on: April 23, 2005, 05:53:24 PM »
i miss my LJ every time i see yours. :cry:

Offline Fatzook

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« Reply #45 on: April 23, 2005, 08:35:36 PM »
looking good Jock :arrow:   I wanna send some rims to the Jock factory for the 'Jock' treatment :wink:    16x 5.5's :arrow:

johnso

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« Reply #46 on: April 23, 2005, 10:45:00 PM »
Quote from: "JOCK"
Quote from: "Sam"
those wheels look fantastic, are they the ones you got cut and flipped?


They are the 15 x 5.5 I had the centres removed and refitted with max offset.  The bolt up face lines up with the rear of the wheel.  Will be making some 15 x 7 soon with same sort of mega offset.


so the face is as far back as it can go?
where did u get this done? and cost?
does this give u any issues like the wheels are so far out they won't tuck under the guard under flex?


thanks, that'll be fantastic :!:

Offline Fatzook

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« Reply #47 on: April 24, 2005, 12:54:11 AM »
those wheels owe him something like $800 :?:  :?:  :?:

Offline Jock

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« Reply #48 on: April 24, 2005, 09:33:43 AM »
Quote from: "johnso"


so the face is as far back as it can go?
where did u get this done? and cost?
does this give u any issues like the wheels are so far out they won't tuck under the guard under flex?


thanks, that'll be fantastic :!:


Had them done at Race engineering at Sumner park. Fantastic job but a little expensive.  $110 a wheel plus powdercoating.  Am looking at doing some cheaper soon.  Still will be an expensive job though.

$110 each  to modify
$40 each to powdercoat
$25 each to buy
$175 a wheel allup for standard wheels :?:

Or you can just use the standard 15 x 15.5 and turn them around. You need a 6mm spacer to clear the calipers.  You have to weld up the valve stem hole and redrill it on the other side.  The rear of the wheel is countersunk for the wheel nuts already. This is not legal as you are modifying a wheel.  Also your track will change to much too.  You almost get the same amount of offset too.  About  25mm less.

The reason I have 29 inch tyres is so they will fit under the guard at full flex. Haven't got enough weight in the car to make it flex yet.  Tried chaining it to the ground and jacking up the other side but it just picked up the back of the chassis. Need another chain down point on the rear.

This much offset will destroy wheel bearings and king pin bearings in no time.  Since it not a daily driver and these are off road wheels only it really doesn't matter.

kig
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johnso

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« Reply #49 on: April 24, 2005, 11:45:05 AM »
Quote from: "JOCK"
Quote from: "johnso"


so the face is as far back as it can go?
where did u get this done? and cost?
does this give u any issues like the wheels are so far out they won't tuck under the guard under flex?


thanks, that'll be fantastic :!:


Also your track will change to much too.  You almost get the same amount of offset too.  About  25mm less.


so would turning around 7" rims give u to much offset, just cos it would destroy the bearings or are there other things?
are the rims in the pic above the same rims as the 1st pic in the thread?


:ur workshop looks fantasic :!:

saabman

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« Reply #50 on: April 24, 2005, 06:35:38 PM »
the lj's look'n great, jock. :arrow:

how much lift did you give her.  looks like a bit.  how hard was that motor installation?

paultherocksta

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« Reply #51 on: April 25, 2005, 09:15:49 AM »
Good work Jock I love it for a vintage regod car :arrow: Is that still the A12? Is that a intercooler on the top of it?

Offline Jock

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« Reply #52 on: April 25, 2005, 10:11:01 AM »
Quote from: "paultherocksta"
Good work Jock I love it for a vintage regod car :arrow: Is that still the A12? Is that a intercooler on the top of it?


Yes it is an intercooler but the A12 is gone.  It is the F-6A 660cc turbo injected with factory intercooler.  55 hp should be heaps for a 700kg car.
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paultherocksta

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« Reply #53 on: April 25, 2005, 08:35:17 PM »
Is that the same as what cam zook has got?

Offline Jock

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« Reply #54 on: April 25, 2005, 08:53:30 PM »
Quote from: "paultherocksta"
Is that the same as what cam zook has got?


Cammo zook wants the twin cam version but he is having trouble finding one.  I just wanted it because of the fuel injection.  Will run upside so won't have the side angle problems anymore.
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paultherocksta

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« Reply #55 on: April 25, 2005, 09:07:03 PM »
With all these mods does it still class as a vintage car? I mean will they be engineered blue plate style? What diffs , engine, roll bar, what else is there.
Anyway I love it   :arrow:
You need to change your sig :oops:

Offline Jock

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« Reply #56 on: April 25, 2005, 09:12:15 PM »
Quote from: "paultherocksta"
With all these mods does it still class as a vintage car? I mean will they be engineered blue plate style? What diffs , engine, roll bar, what else is there.
Anyway I love it   :arrow:
You need to change your sig :oops:


Brakes,Seats, Steering, Engine, Roll Bar will need mod plate

Is still thirty years old and that is all that matters for club rego.

Sig fixed :D
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Offline Fatzook

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« Reply #57 on: April 25, 2005, 09:13:33 PM »
Quote from: "JOCK"
Quote from: "paultherocksta"
Is that the same as what cam zook has got?


Cammo zook wants the twin cam version but he is having trouble finding one.  I just wanted it because of the fuel injection.  Will run upside so won't have the side angle problems anymore.


There is a twin cam version of the F6a, but thats not what I am chasing.  Its the K6A that I am after.  All Alloy block, twin cam, EFI turbo intercooler.  Still 660cc, but less wieght and apparently can be worked more.

And I have found a source for getting a front cut.  Bout $2500 tho :?:

paultherocksta

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« Reply #58 on: April 25, 2005, 09:25:00 PM »
What ever happened to cubes?
660cc man that's tiny. I understand what a lung can do but that's just a bunch of thimble pistons spinning.
My old drag bike made 200hp at full noise.1200cc Suzuki GSX EFE fully bombed and it did twice. :lol:
I guess the cost of fuel these days may be better with the little pump :wink:

Beastmavster

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« Reply #59 on: April 25, 2005, 11:01:56 PM »
You seen how many hp a non turbo 600cc motorbike is putting out now?

A GSXR600/R6/ZX6 are all 130hp range - more than what the GSX1100/XS1100/GPZ1100 of your drag bike era used to put out.

Thats without a turbo (although it is at 14000rpm)

Even my old YZF was about 110hp and way more power than the bigbored GS1100G I had for a while. Wheelies were only limited by your sanity.

:D

The 660cc can put out up to about 200hp with the full works and huge turbo setup form what is a very light car. Even in stock form they put out way more power than a 1.3, with all the benefits in reliability, fuel economy and side angles that EFI provides.

Put that into perspective - that's v8 power. The VL turbo put out 200hp in a car with more than double the weight.

It'll kill a 1300 from idle as well - it's not just a wait till the powerband kicks in type power. The engines we get here in australia are usually the bottom of the barrel stuff that no-one else can sell anymore due to emission standards.